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CLIMBING IN NEPAL
Peaks to Climb
Clothing and Equipment
Rules of climbing

Nepal Handicraft

CIMBING PEAKS

fferent mountains have various levels of difficulty. All of our climbs follow the standard and easiest route on every mountain. This gives us a better chance to reach the top. Our guides always pick safe routes and know the signs of danger. We give all our clients time to acclimate and if the altitude begins to effect anyone we know how to react. Good physical shape is needed for these climbs but no climbing experience is needed. We urge all clients to follow an exercise routine before coming to Nepal.

(I) Trekking peaks: smaller and easier 
(II) Climbing peaks: higher and challenging including Everest


(I) Trekking peaks: smaller and easier, here are the most popular climbs we offer: 

Mera Peak-6,476 m ( 21,247 ft): Mera Peak is one of the highest trekking peaks in Nepal. It is also an easier climb than most others. It is located south of Everest in the Hinku valley. We follow the standard route up the North Face . The climb itself takes 3 Ė 4 days including 2 nights at base camp depending on weather. Though the climb is not technically difficult good physical condition is a must. It takes 6 days to trek to base camp from Lukla and 6 days to trek back. Give yourself at least three weeks in Nepal if you want to climb Mera Peak. 

Island Peak-6,189 m (20,305 ft): The name Island peak comes from the fact that the peak looks like a island surrounded by ice. We climb Island peak via the South-East flank on a pretty straight forward climb. There are amazing views of Everest as well as the entire Khumbu region. This climb is reached with the Everest base camp trek and takes around 6-7 days to get to base camp from Lukla. The climb requires good physical condition. 

Tharpu Chuli- 5,500 m (18, 045 m): This mountain is often called Tent Peak due to itís tent like shape. This beautiful mountain is situated in the middle of the Annapurna Sanctuary. We follow the North-West ridge to a high camp and the next day follow the same ridge to the top. The trek to base camp from Pokhara takes an average of at least 5 days. So the entire trip can take 2 to 3 weeks. 

There are many other trekking peaks that can be climbed such as Mardi Himal, the Chulus, Hiunchuli, and Ganesh Himal. We can guide any of the trekking peaks you wish.

Trekking Peaks
We can organize expeditions on any of the summits listed here-after, providing mountain guides and other staff, who have been there and know the routes; according to the destination of your choice, we'll send you detailed route information, as well as recommendations on technical equipment and the capacities required.

The list of "Trekking Peaks" which opened for trekking groups with permission from Nepal Mountaineering Association:

Name of the peak
Altitude-(in meter)
Location
Administrative Zone

Mera Peak

6654

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

Imja Tse (Island Peak)

6183

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

Chulu East

6584

Damodar

Gandaki

Singu Chuli(Fluted-Peak)

6501

Annapurna

Gandaki

Hunchuli

6441

Annapurna

Gandaki

Chulu West

6419

Damodar

Gandaki

Kusum Kanguru

6367

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

Parchemuche

6187

Rolwaling

Janakpur

Pisang

6091

Damodar

Gandaki

Kwangde (Kawande)

6011

Rolwaling

Sagarmatha

Ramdung

5925

Rolwaling

Janakpur

Palder Peak

5896

Ganesh

Bagmati

Khongatse (Mehra)

5849

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

Kangja Chuli

5844

Langtang

Bagmat

Pokalde

5806

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

Ramdung

5925

Rolwaling

Janakpur

Tharpu Chuli (Tent-Peak)

5663

Annapurna

Gandaki

Mardi Himal

5587

Annapurna

Ganda

Peak Fee:
The fees are as follows:

Group Size
Rate US$ 
Additional P/P US$
1-4 Persons
US $350.00 Only
 
5-8 Persons
US $350.00
Plus40.00 (Per person)
9-12 Persons
US $510.00
Plus 25.00 (Per person)

The fees will be applicable from 1st. Jan, 2001 onwards.

(II) Climbing peaks: higher and challenging including Everest

Climbing in the Nepal Himalaya:
Expeditions to any of the highest mountains of Nepal, including all those ranging in between 7,000 and 8,000m. requires long-term planning and through organization. Therefore, we do not wish to overload this site with an itinerary of all the mountains & particular information; on request and considering how often change in the regulation arise, we'll supply you with all the latest route information and planning requirements.

However we have enclosed some of the pretty famous on charts:
Over 8,000 m. Mountains for expedition.

S.No

Name of the peak

Altitude

Location

Administrative Zone

01

Mt. Everest

8,848

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

02

Kanchenjunga

8,586

Kanchenjunga

Mechi

03

Lhotse

8,516

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

04

Ylaung Khang

8,505

Kanchenjunga

Mechi

05

Kanchenjunga

8,476

Kanchenjunga

Mechi

07

Makalu

8,463

Mahalangur

Koshi

08

Lhotse Shar

8,400

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

09

Cho Oyu

8,201

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

10

Dhaulagiri I

8,167

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

11

Manaslu

8,163

Mansiri

Gandaki

12

Annapurna I

8,091

Gandaki

Gandaki

Between 7,000 m. to 8,000 m. Mountain to climb.

Peaks

Heights

Location

Administrative Zone

Gyachung Khang

7,952

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

Annapurna II

7,937

Gandaki

Gandaki

Kangbachen

7,903

Kanchenjunga/Mechi

Mechi

Himalchuli East

7,893

Mansiri/Gorkha

Gandaki

Peak 29 Dakura

7,871

Mansiri

Gandaki

Nuptse

7,885

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

Dhaulagiri II

7,751

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Ngojumba Kang

7,743

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

Dhaulagiri III

7,715

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Kumbhakarna

7,710

Kanchenjunga

Mechi

Makalu II

7,668

Mahalangur

Koshi

Dhaulagiri IV

7,661

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Varaha Shikhar

7,647

Annapurna

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri V

7,618

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Shantishikhar

7,591

Mahalangur

Sagarmatha

Annapurna III

7,556

Annapurna

Gandaki

Himalchuli West

7,540

Mansiri

Gandaki

Annapurna VI

7,520

Annapurna

Gandaki

Khang Sar Kang

7,485

Annapurna

Gandaki

Jongsang Peak

7,483

Janak

Mechi

Shartse

7,459

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

Gangapuran

7,455

Annapurna

Gandaki

Gaesh I( Yangrima)

7,429

Dhading

Bagmati

Himalchuli North

7,371

Mansiri

Gandaki

Churen

7,371

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Kirat Chuli

7,365

Kanchenjunga

Mechi

Chamlang

7,319

Mahalangur

Sagarmatha

Dhaulagiri VI

7,268

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Putha Himchuli

7,246

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Langtang Lirung 

7,234

Langtang

Bagmati

Rules of climbing:

A. Asking for climbing permission : The following documents have to be sent to the Ministry of ourism, Mountaineering Division, Katmandu, Nepal.

  • Completed Application
  • Endorsement of the National Alpine Club.(if there is no Alpine Club, endorsement of the  Government of your side)
  • Short biography of all members of the expedition (with photograph)
  • Map and/ or photograph of the mountain including climbing route.
  • Approach route map.

Since climbing permission is granted on 'first come first serve' basis, it is therefore necessary to enlist the expedition's name for the particular mountain for the particular season of the year. The listing is made when the completed application form with all documents are received by the Ministry of Tourism. Incase all documents mentioned above cannot be submitted at a time, booking is possible with only the completed application by the expedition leader. No fee is required to enlist the expedition's name.
 
B. Climbing Permit fee (royalty) : The leader of the expedition team or its agent is required to compulsorily pay the full amount of climbing permit fee (Royalty) within TWO MONTHS of the date of permission. Incase of Failure of the payment of royalty within two months such permission may be CANCELLED. The payment can be sent to Eco Trekís bank account by any means of money transfer.

C. Preparation In Nepal for Expedition : Import of foods and equipment:- Invoices and airway bill or bill of lading (four copies each) have to be submitted to the Ministry of Tourism for import license and customs clearance for the import of expedition foods and equipment to Nepal. CIF Katmandu value is to be clearly mentioned in the invoice.

Communication Equipment :- As Walkie-talkies, Transceiver (Wireless) sets and other communication equipment are controlled articles in Nepal. Please declare these articles in the customs office (at entry point) that you wish to bring into Nepal for use during climbing period.

Such equipments have to be collected from the customs office by receiving permission letter from the Ministry of communication.

For the clearance of the equipment completed application form and invoice with catalogue or specifications (four copies each) should be submitted to the Ministry of Tourism (Eco Trek ) which are latter to be sent to other concerned government offices.

D. Filming or Documentary : Permission is required for filming or documentary. The Ministry of Communication must be contacted any time for queries about filming in Nepal. Please let us know we will take care of every thing here in Nepal.

E. The Royalty and size of the Expedition team : "Rules effective from 1996 Spring": More than one team maybe permitted to climb Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) by each separate route in one season. A royalty of US $ 50,000 has been fixed for Sagarmatha for a team consisting of 5 members. The team may include 5 more members provided if it pays extra US $ 10,000 for each additional member. The royalty includes trekking fee of the team members. The team members will be granted three months visas. Additional US $ 20,000 will have to be paid the team willing to scale Sagarmatha by normal South East Ridge route.

In all regions including Khumbu, an expedition team can have up to 5 members for the minimum royalty, and 5 more members for the additional royalty.

The team already permitted to scale Sagarmath will have to pay US $ 10,000 if it intends to change the ascent route. It will have to pay additional US $ 20,000 if it intends to change the ascent route to normal South East Ridge route.

For peak other than Sagarmatha, the team will have to pay additional 25% of the royalty in US $ to change the ascent route.

Expedition team must complete all necessary administrative formalities and procedures in order to send back the garbage of the expedition team to their respective countries, after the completion of the expedition. Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation will take necessary monetary deposit from them, which will be refunded after the dispatch of garbage from Nepal.

"Effective from 1992" the Ministry of Tourism has fixed the price of the deposit for the management of Garbage's by each mountaineering team who tries to clim any peak in Khumbu region are as follows;

  • Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) US $ 4,000
  • Other peaks above 8000 meter US $ 3000
  • All peaks less than 8000 meters US $ 2000)

Royalties of the mountain expedition (In U.S. Dollar)
(RELATING TO SUB-RULE (1) OF RULE (5) ROYALTY "US $")

  • Mt. Everest US $50,000 for team of to5 and US $10 00 for each additional members/ maximum size is 10 on each team.
  • Peaks above 8000 meter (except Mt. Everest) US $10,000 for team of up to7 and US $1500 for each additional members/ maximum size is 12 on each team.
  • Peaks of 7501 - 8000m./ US $4,000 for team up to 7 and for each additional US $500.00 & maximum size is 12 members
  • Peaks of 7001 - 7500m/.US $3,000 for team up to 7 and for each additional  US $400.00 & maximum size is 12 members
  • Peaks of 6501 - 7000m/.US $2,000 for team up to 7 and for each additional US $300.00 & maximum size is 12 members
For More Information Please Contact Us
Ama Travels (P.) Ltd.
P.O.Box : 19620, Thamel, Kathmandu
Phone : 977-1-4425811 / 4423431
Mobile : 98510 26681 (Sudhir)
E-Mail - amatravel98@gmail.com
sudhirupadhyay_1968@yahoo.com


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